28 Mar 2010

Moors Explorer

Another Nice day exploring the Moors, searching for mythical blocks of golden sandstone.....
Found some good lines, will write the rest up this week.
Nice Gully
Steep Arete Block
Steep Arete Block

Nice Overhanging arete
Farndale Flyer (needs a clean) E5
Rainbow Slab

21 Mar 2010

Searching For Buried Treasure

Back to the North Yorkshire Moors, Captain Cooks Crag, searching for hidden treasure? 
We started at the Pinnacle area warming up on some nice dry grippy sandstone. then started on the lines, that we had seen before on a previous visit, the first being, the cracking line Liam named Hula Hawke, a direct line between Deviation and Fibre Optic, from good crimps leading to a right hand Hola Hoop, and a sloping slap to the pocket on the left, a bold move! repeated by Brandon straight after, well done boys!
Liam on his new line Hula Hawke F6b
Two nice double dynos on the pinnacle, one to the round spike then the massive big air reach to the very top of the block, feels like your in the air for quite a while....... then a nice little couple of problems on the back of the boulder just behind us one we named Treasure Chest the other still a project, mantling the block only using a faint groove 6c?
Treasure Chest F6a+
Double Dyno Attempt, Big Hair!
Then all attention was focused on the dominating dangerous looking prow boulder, nestled in the forest below, quite an inspiring block, Firstly i cleaned up a future project, while the Copley brothers soaked in the big green beast staring at them! then Brandon and i worked on the rail, opening two good lines, a rail traverse and then claiming the ascent of Submariner SS F6b+ from two sloping rails catch the sloping undercut dish, match and reach right for a good side pocket, powerful
Submariner SS F6b+
Brandon on the sloping rail
Liam on what we think is Nimrod?

SS Groove only, nice moves
After hearing screams from Liam, we thought we should investigate what the commotion was, it turned out to be an attempt on the green Nimrod, a Graeme Paige and John Hewitt Route, yet it we were unsure from the description where it finished? the wall also held some good eliminates worth a go.
then finally over to Cooks quarry for some Brilliant Tony Marr Problems, The Watchman from sit, harder than it looks! old school English 5c! finishing the day on the arete Men's Zone, but then moving delicately onto the slab, after some good efforts we were wasted, so maybe next time......
The Watchman SS 
Brandon almost finishing the Arete Slab Project 

19 Mar 2010

Beinn Alligin

Beinn Alligin, a giant amphitheatre of boulders sitting under the jewelled mountain consisting of dense clusters and scattered free standing boulders, good clean rock, easily found following traversing deer paths below the horns of Alligin. Listen to the underground streams and beware of the frogs!!!!! probably the biggest and most dense field of boulders in the UK

14 Mar 2010

A Testing Day at Caley

Another sunny day and Wimberry trip was on the cards, until a last minute text from Andy, diverted the car to Caley. So many test pieces in a condensed area, in a very fine setting, good strong technical climbing right across the range of grades, proper Yorkshire grades "ay lad" be prepared to get spanked!
A quick warm up on the playground area then straight to the Adrenaline rush area for some attempts on some classic hard lines and personal nemisises, then over to the crag boulders for more of the same.
Suckers Wall  The Pinch V5 6b
Everone, wondering what Robs holding 
onto, and how! 7b on the Suckers boulder
Michelle giving it some girl power on the 
suckers boulder 6b
James not gurning on Slapstick Arete 7b
Andy calmly taking The Horn V7 6b+
The day proved that Robs diet of squirrels and berries definitely works and Wii bouldering is no match for hard training.......Theme tune of the day: I believe in a thing called love, The Darkness

12 Mar 2010

Sea Washed Sandstone

This idyllic sandy haven is just waiting to be explored,  a multitude of fantastic little solos and traverses.
Most grades are around the font 3 to 5+ grade, with some harder lines and lots of eliminates.  
The rock is forever eroding so problems will change!
Set in a stunning part of the Northumberland coastline the geological patterns here are incredible, the sandy beach is clean and perfect for a picnic or dare I say sunbathe!

9 Mar 2010

Kyloe in the Woods

I have added the main wall to www.betaguides.com will add the rest of the crag later.

Desert Island  Bouldering, the main wall Kyloe In the Woods

7 Mar 2010

Mud Sweat and Tears at the Roaches

Hard course grit for change, a pleasent reminder how good the roaches were, perfect for a late night summer session or warm dry winter hardcore projects. Avoiding the Aptly named Boggy 'Spring Boulders" (a must after a dry spell) we got straight on the classics on the lower tier, taking warm ups and ticking some quality classic lines.
Rob on Stretch and Mantel F6c
Then to the very wet and muddy Doxey's Pool, behind the skyline area, taking a splash down in the water on Staffordshire Flyer, got soaked! most starts were sodden and 5:10 don't make wellies, so back down to the upper tier just as the sun broke the clouds.
Super glue fingers James on Nadin's Traverse Hard 7a***
A nice eliminate F6a with a much harder sit start

Good balance or maybe asleep?

Plenty to do at any grade, a brilliant day out, a mystical place, looks like spring is here at last!!!!