29 Aug 2011

Even more Wainstones

After frustratingly creaking my neck on the toilet looking for the toilet roll?! Had big plans for trying a lot more of the problems on the Wainstones, added to this the wind was building up, I had visions of mats flying all over with chalk bags disappearing in a puff of white across the moor, It turned out no so bad and ended up almost like a meet.
Lisa and Jo enjoyed it so much they both were up for another day out, even caught up with Steve Crowe and Karin to chat about guides and stuff, It's such a nice place and the view is something else, I'm keen to get the topo to the area done soon.
The grades go into the upper 7s with plenty to do in the grades below this, with variations and worthwhile sit starts and no hands allowed to some of the problems, hope to get this done in the next couple of weeks, watch this space.
Mike Adams on the right arete on the Prow Block
Strongbow Cave
Lisa loving the bold slabs
No Hands Challenge
The Right Pebble Arete 6b+ (Purely on the arete keeping right) the shorter you are the harder it gets
Steve ready to pop again on a path side problem from Sit
I was a bit gutted a hold fell off, they looked fine after a good inspection, the other holds seem solid, a good bold 6b from sit? topping out to the right, sustained all the way

22 Aug 2011

Wainstones Revisited

Loads to do! so a quick post about Sundays rampage around the Wainstones, Six of us worked our way round some great problems, quite a few not documented and adding sit starts and variations, Reckon it will end up with about 100 problems. A perfect place to go in the heat as their is usually a breeze.

15 Aug 2011

Jam Power (Dawid's Special Flavours)

After the last visit to Anston Stones Wood. I got to thinking, what's Dawid's secret to flashing mighty hard problems? Could it be hard training? Diet? during the day, every so often he would delve into his bag and out of it would appear a large crusty bread bun with bright red fluid oozing out of the sides? "what's that I asked?"  "Jam Sandwiches" Dawid replied, but these were no ordinary jam sandwiches, because every time I asked "what flavour jam is that" It would be a new and extraordinary flavour. 
Think I'll give that a go (Forgot to add Cinnamon coffee, also very nice)
Flash Power Jams
O.J.D The effects of Obsessive Jam Disorder
Revolver 8a+ No flash - On a sugar low?
Dawid's video edit of some classics, It also captures the full charm of the Anston Stone Woods.

14 Aug 2011

Forest Fruits

Last day of this years three week break from work, wanted to go out with a bang, needed to go somewhere that ticked a few boxes.
1. In a Wood
2. Steep Roof
3. Hard
4. Not Climbed
Got my fix, but still bottled the main event, gave it a proper clean before leaving.
Mark managed to put up a*** 5.5 metre juggy 5+, totally unique for the Moors, I eventually managed some standing starts to some projects that climbed really well, worked the starts, Hard! Still a perfect finale to the holiday.
Forest Roof
Mark Wilson - Breeching the Roof
Working the low starts
Fruit of the Forest

10 Aug 2011

Anston Stones

Work has started on the Magnesium Limestone Guide, Ok it's not work, just an excuse to go climbing more and explore new places. One of the first places to map is the Anston Stones.
Met up with Mike for a walking guide book tour of the bouldering there, Hiding in a SSSI woods. A typical woods upon first glance with scrappy looking walls beside the paths, but dig deeper and hidden from view are some unforgiving limestone problems. By the time we reached the first wall, I realised the place was quite magical and not long after this the balance of the universe was soon rectified and we were attacked by wasps, my arse has a massive sting on it! After the tour I was Inspired by a lifetime of of work, knew I would have to dig even deeper to do the place justice. lets hope I can.
Front Cover - Mike on Fire in the Rain 8b+***
Mystical Woods
Topo demo - Woody's Wall - Beware of the Wasps - Ouch
It was obvious Mike was still in love with the place and I could see why, sometimes you put so much of yourself into a venue, you feel like part of yourself is written all over the rock.
Dawid ready to Launch
Dan gets the tick
Dawid said "Behind you!" the secret way into the Inset Area
A*** Classic - the Inset Area

6 Aug 2011

The Boulder Factory

Time for another overnight session with Mark, we had high hopes as we approached Clay bank, the clouds were leaving and the skies cleared. Time to scope the boulders along hasty bank? They were all looking rather green and the rain that had passed earlier had left no time to dry them out (think they will need a good dry spell) adding to that the midges were out in masses, unlike anything we had experienced in the moors before! Still managed to find a dry face and got a couple of problems done, paid for this later when the bites started to swell
Eaten Alive 6b+ maybe wrong? it's hard to grade with a thousand midges feasting on you.
The next morning woke to a perfect sunrise, time to bask in the sun somewhere high up in the breeze.
Roseberry Topping, the perfect place, Toppled boulders caused by mining the hill, opening the rock to constant erosion ever since, producing new blocks upon every collapse,  Roseberry's a bit of an unpredictable boulder factory spitting out blocks, causing sadness to the trad-climbers and an hope for the boulderer that the block is a good one and has fallen the right way?
Most of the rock was sound, better than expected, with a few projects to go back for.
Sunrise over Roseberry
A Roseberry Classic 6b+
A resident charging his batteries in the sun
Steven Phelps turned up and we got a lot of good problems done, while
Mark blasted through loads of problems and then ran out of juice and fell asleep on his mat
Steve on anther good problem
Banged my shin a project! now I've got two knees,
look at the state of my legs
Mark attempting 'The Shelf'
This looked mint but hard, had a little go as we left.

4 Aug 2011

Lisa and Jo Highballing!

Back to Ireland  -Managed to get a day of bouldering in with Lisa (and Jo) Ended up at Glendasan, it's close to the road with a wide range of grades and projects on both sides of the road, we opted for the south side, aiming for the starting block, except? Lisa thought I had put her shoe bag in the car! Oops
time to go back! this gave me a chance to dart up the hill and have a scout, a hundred metres or so later eureka! a brilliant low rising traverse, 5m of heel hooking bliss
 Perfect Opening Line 6c***
When the girls got back it was straight to business, they both blasted around the block trying every line they could find, Jo found a tricky traverse and soon became a proper boulderer, giving out some classic grunts and a bit or swearing. 
Lisa Highballing on the Starting Block
Jo cruising the arete
Lisa on Jo's traverse
A new line Sideways Down 6b+**
Finished on St Kevins Slab 6a+ - A must do slab

3 Aug 2011

A Magnificent Seven

Back to the Hidden quarry last night for a bit of a clean and to try out the lines, on a wall that looked like it would give up some fine lines? After some cutting, pulling, digging, dusting, cleaning, toweling and chalking it surely did. Oh, and not forgetting a bit of climbing effort from Dawid, Mike and Tony
Dawid seriously misjudged the dyno, luckly we stacked the pads

Diverted to Glenmalure

The day before meeting up with Dave should have been a rest day? Talked Lisa into a nice little day out on the coast... Ice cream, Fish & Chips and a quick run down to some caves, Mmmm why not? ended up fighting with two problems for two hours and only managed one? just as the tide was tickling the edge of the mat and Lisa and Jo's heads popped over the cliff edge, Time for an Ice Cream and a bit of crab fishing, great fun, all you need is some meat a bit of string and a bucket, then throw it in the water, minutes later pull in the greedy little crabs clinging to the meat, too small to eat, Shame. 
Time for Ice Cream 7a
Look Mum I've got Crabs
Sorry for not giving away the venue but it's under development, looks like a future premier venue to me, cool caves by the sea in this summer heat and no midges.

Anyway on to Glenmalure, Dave took me to the Ballinafushogue Boulder to warm up, ended up more like overheating! so moved on quickly to check out some roof blocks on the higher terraces. this ended up to be quite fruitful, the roofs were pretty perfect, got a few quality lines done, with still more to go back for, Glenmalure is a pure gem, bouldering high on hillside terraces will immaculate views and a cool breeze.
Ballinafushogue Boulder, soon after this dove head first into the stream (Pic Dave Flanagan)
A perfect roof 
Also hidden away from site, a future classic? starts way down, worked some of the moves, wow!