28 Nov 2010

Minus 18 in Wales!

The big freeze has hit, but everyone was still up for a day at Stanage? - Destination Plantation 
After two aborted attempts on different roads into Stanage, involving - wheel spinning, everybody out pushing the car, crashing into the edges! the car felt like a hockey puck.
We ended up walking in from Burbage! Got there in the end..............
James enjoying the perfect - Crescent Arete Font 5+***
Found Rob and Lee (never give up) Cooper on Zippy's Traverse Font 7b
From then in it was just a free for all on some classic grit - in mint condition
Deliverance Traverse Font 7a+***
Mark (High-ball) Wilson on Pebble Arete Font 5+***
Silk Start Font 7a+
Oaksi has landed - Help the Aged Font 7a*
 As we left Nigel and Andy were working Careless Torque Font 8a***
Sneaky Peek
A fully committed attempt - so close -
still don't know whether they did it?

21 Nov 2010

Misty Peak

With the Moors being so wet, next years project has begun already! Mapping the Peak to create Font-style circuit guides - hopefully a lot of people will get involved. This project is all the more exciting for me after with teaming up with Steve from The Send
Our aim is to create a massive resource and links to the best of the bouldering that the UK and Ireland has to offer.
The day started with a breakfast invite to Guy's, except all he had in was sugar and potatoes! (any ideas for a recipe?)  So I rustled up some bacon butties, then headed off to misty Burbage. Guy and Billy had their sights on the Knock (E4 5c), while I wanted to try Electrical Storm (Font 7b), but the forcast was wet wet wet! Wishing we were lucky....
So to start we did bit of dabbling on some variations on the Sheep until Billy and his Dad turned up.
Sweet moves on a variation up the arete, then into the sloping break onto the smaller top block direct. Shame -  too wet to finish, someone must have done this before as the moves are great? The problem could be extended under the block and left.
Billy having a go at the moves as soon as he got there
Over to the north side next, where it was a lot drier. The guys hit the crag while I did the usual sniffing out of potential new or forgotten stuff, a bit like a bouldering truffle pig...... sniff.. sniff ... here we are... well maybe?
A worthwhile micro problem SS Addiction Font 6c*
It took a while to get the reach to the right sloper. I had to do it via a mini pocket but the moves were great  and lucky enough for me Toby Wright and his friends were nearby on Zaff Skoczylas and joined me to agree on the grade after they had made some impressive flashes as well as doing the lower start. Thanks guys and girl
Bob Hickish on Zaff Skoczylas 7c low start 
Toby enjoying the moves? on Addiction
Meanwhile Billy and Guy were trying to bully Billy's dad into doing the Right Fin, Guy and Billy showing the way

18 Nov 2010

New App Demo

Just a taste I will add more text later, too tired!!!! sorry

14 Nov 2010

A Return to the Grit

After 11 months exploring the Moors the weather dictated it was time to hit the grit. Conditions were perfect! And lucky enough for me, I had arranged to meet Steve and Selina to talk about an App for the I phone. Meeting up for breakfast in outside, then over to Gardoms to meet up with a motley crew, Alex and the Bangor Uni crowd, Ram-Man, Oaksi and not forgetting Guy Van Foxy Hat.
Oaksi Stealth climbing on G- Thang font 6b+ ***
Guy the 'Fox' on Wardrobe Ridge font 6c*
The Money Shot
Ram - Man's ascent of Suavto font 7b+**
Selina on a new worthy Gardoms problem? SS Lost Boy 6c*
 After working out a way of doing the crux static!
Left of Business as Usual (needed a good clean)
Steve enjoying Business as Usual before the top out!!!!!! E5 7a

10 Nov 2010

Ravenswick Additions

Another good session at Ravenswick 'The wet weather gym', this time meeting up with the Moors duo - Dave Warburton and Franco Cookson for a test drive on the new developments on the wall. All the problems turned out to have a splash of excellence and a side order of projects to go back to.
Left Wall Topo - Am working on a numbered one so it will be easier 
to add eliminates - watch this space! 
The Moors Camera Crew
Franco on the Project
Dave on - The Higher Traverse to Gutter Crack 6c**
Sam on the Condor 7a*
Dark matter 7a**
The very painful  - Film Noir 7a+*
Three finger-wrecking holds - ouch!

5 Nov 2010


With trips on the horizon - Scotland - Devon and back to Ireland, Felt pretty good until Déjà vu crept in! last year the weather held alot boulderers off the rock for a good six weeks! bad cabin fever 
The trips to the Moors were getting wetter, keep having to stop off at Ravenswick for a dry wall to climb on. Click here for free guide Even with the damp mist in the air my hopes for some good boulders at Tor Hill were high, only to be let down by some quite small damp leaning blocks, managed one problem! 
Leaving the Tor Hill Boulders Westerdale
A quick exit and back to Ravenswick to find yet more good problems - mostly eliminates but who cares when the weathers bad. The development of the wall is going well, but will it start to leak badly?
Ravenswick- cleaning the Black Magician SS font 6c+
Is it time to cheat on the beloved sandstone and fondle some grit? A dilemma!