30 May 2011

A Full Circuit

Decided to put a topo online for Clemmitt's. It's getting a bit high in bracken and the midges are hungry, looking at getting it finished within a couple of weeks. A few more problems to do and that's me I think?
If anyone goes, please leave the lip traverse alone on Jake's Wall (we have just liberated it and worked the moves, thanks) May also try a line also on what has been called Hero's Wall at the top left-hand of the woods (A bad landing on a steep short roof with no real obvious weakness) any line will do?
After typing up the problems, including projects the circuit weighs in at a mighty 80+ that's just in the woods, so all three should end up maybe 150+, not at all bad considering the quality of the lines done. not sure of the price? maybe a £1, what do you think? under 1p a problem not bad?
Franco close on the project on the Wolf
Oaksi on Fried Bread, extends onto the arete on Fryup Wall

25 May 2011

How to Disappear Completely

Just got back from a solo mission, sleeping out on the crag, harsh winds made it fun with the pad, got some good stuff done and a lot of mapping, photos of blocks, ready for an assault later in the week.
On the way up stopped off at Clemmitt's north end to bag the Mantle, (high in bracken now) went first go!? so I'll have to wait for a repeat before grading it?
Shelf Life, Using bad technique - earlier attempt
Two days scoping a venue, old projects came into mind, Travelled to the now felled woods surrounding Captain Cook's crag. This was slightly heartbreaking as wooded bouldering feels somewhat mystical and the place now looks like a scene from a disaster movie
 Submariner 6b
Not so mystical? but cleaner
left the boulder alone, it had some chalk and brush marks on, a good sign, and a problem on the other side of the block that I had cleaned to come back to, showed signs of further brushing in the right places,  hopefully someone has done it, the sit start was tricky, the top out had a few options, yet still another problem on the block.
1. Marr's Attacks 7a*** 2. Men's Zone 6b* 3. Captain Sausage Fingers 6b**
4. The other arete on the right-side - good moves, overgrown top out
Over to the right hand Cook's quarry to finish a problem tried over a year ago, Started on Men's Zone a Tony Marr English 6a* the left arete, then planned to start the arete and climb onto the slab, seemed a bit daft, so decided to take the block up the middle starting with feet on the blocks, without using both aretes, fell off first time at the top move, felt bold and about the same grade as the arete, then set about on an eliminate on the left wall without the ledges. Twenty minutes getting the first move sorted, loads of attempts and nine pops for the top out falls later, got it done.
Legs were shot after this, wondered back to the big block falling over everything chuntering to myself, time to go home I think, passing Roseberry on the way.
Roseberry Topping - The fields like rolling seas in the wind

16 May 2011

Moving On

Time to move on and check out some more forgotten blocks on the Moors. Deep into Farndale this time
Mark loving the friction and quality of the rock
The arete from standing, brick hard from sit!
The next set of pictures were taken at one of my favorite venues in the Moors?????? and after a big walk in mission to scope another ridge out, we arrived just as the sun went down, the light was perfect, Mats down, time for some night bouldering.
Mark on the large slab
Stunning Shots by Mark Wilson
quite a wall 
Sublime arete - Too Hard for me from sit!
Nice prow - looked possible
Going back for this - bad landing maybe?

9 May 2011

Quick Hit

A quick hit in between showers gave some entertaining climbing on saturday, Joined by James, I was keen for a second look at small little venue that Sam is developing, The rock mostly sound and will hold a good 20+ quality lines, when fully developed and possible 50 short stocking fillers, some good 6's were done as well as a 'cracking slab' that held three classic 5's, Jame's worked some new lines on the slot block, while base camp for me was the prow, which took quite a bit to work out how to get to the top then move off the slopers to top out left? Will be up all next weekend if anyone is about?
Sam looking at the 'Slot'
Slab and Prow
Base camp for me - the Iron Prow
Iron Man 6c+***
Finally worked a sequence out and it fell at about 6c+ from sit, this ended up using a block for feet next to the prow, It can be done from sit feet on the prow- This made it a lot harder to catch the first crimp and to hold the sloper! 7b maybe?
The Slot 6b**

2 May 2011

The Meet

Really enjoyed the meet, perfect weather for that kind of thing, It's the most people I've ever seen on the Moors, loads got done some great lines have been put up by everyone. Friday Mark and I spent the day searching Glaisdale for any big glacial left overs?
The rest of the weekend centered around Clemmitt's, as their is so much to do. Just a taster of what got done, I will add the details later if I get time! thanks to all of you that came, will be organizing another Meet for sure, another venue next time.........
Sam on Sam's Slab
Oaksi breeching the roof
Sam on the right hand of Full Breakfast 7b+
James and Dave on the Raven
Mark Nab
Oaksi on The Raven
Martin showing the way on the Lip 7b+
Baz on a Project on the Undercut boulder
One more bit of last minute gardening before leaving