27 Mar 2011

Into Focus

Last weekend proved to be quite a landmark for me especially after over a year of scouring the Moors for the best it had to offer? everything seemed to come into focus after visiting Clemmitt's Crag and the boulders below, I now knew how to approach creating a bouldering guide to the North Yorkshire Moors and after Saturday's visit to Clemmitt's right-hand end of the crag it was proving to be a jewel of a place. This time joined by Mike, Jim then followed up behind by Aiden, Chris, Jo and last but not least, a very late Ram-Man who must have climbed into dark
Mike, James and Myself checked out the right-hand end
James Kitson on 'Smiling Arete' Font 6c+
Jim on the what we thought would be an easy warm up!
Attempting the mantel direct on the Shelf Block
Jim on one of the fine aretes
The 'Over and Under' Boulder
Ready to pop on 'Over' Font 6c+
Mike on 'Rusty Trombone' Font 6b+
Back down to the Lower Crag Boulders for some unfinished business
Off the Rails - Font 6c
Last but not least - Mike topped out on the ten move wonder 'Full Breakfast' grade to follow as the crux is at the top and the exit is tricky, it needs a better clean! very bold (sorry this photo does not do the problem justice, I put the camera down to spot!) Ram- Man video to follow soon......

21 Mar 2011

Bath full of Lichen

This weekend has been quite a revelation for me, especially after Mike Gray dispatched 'The Mighty Oak' without giving it a grade!? the ascent looked quite effortless, executed with a dyno, looking relaxed as if this sort of problem was second nature.
Regardless of this, the aim of the weekend was to develop the Clemmitts Crag boulders.......
However, on the way up Martin Parker texted to say he was heading down to Oak wall for a second ascent ....the perfect diversion. Martin Parker had already repeated 'The Mighty Oak' before we arrived and repeated it again, just to show us the move (cheers Martin) as for the grade? 7a+? 7b? 
Further south of  'Oak wall' Sam on the arete under the fused oak, Oak Crag
Sitting contemplating the hard moves under the fused Oak
The Sit start to the central line
Sam wandered off and fell down a hole!
Back to Oak wall - Martin on the Mighty Oak
It's not that bad!
You can do it?
After that we went to Camp Hill, Martin flashed Phileas Fogg from standing, he also found a great sequence to do the sit, felt pretty hard to me! Got close to getting 'Strict Arete' from sit! need to link it?!
Got the sit Strict Arete nearly did it! wired the stand, arrrrragh
Sam got his dyno thanks to Martin
The Fish Boulder (Camp Hill)
Then over to Clemmitts
After dark Bouldering at Clemmitt's
Bad Ass Mark taking on the 'Flake' in the dark
The Crux on 'Undercut'
Mark on the brilliant no-hands problem
Sam enjoying the left arete
Jake working his own problem
Moors Magic
This problem looked easy? maybe not.

13 Mar 2011

A Diamond under a Majestic Oak and Oak Wall has been Breached

Under a majestic oak tree, hidden from view above Rosedale lies a diamond of a boulder. Having paid a visit to the crag in early summer last year (Link), thick bracken put me off a full investgation of the boulder-field. At this time I had only seen the highball broken slab thinking it looked highball but quite easy?
How wrong I was - This time bracken-free and joined by Jake, Sam and Tom the full potential of the boulders could be seen.
The Thorgill circuit map - First Draft
Roasted Ore 6a+*** The Ore Boulders - Classic
The left arete is also good - never finished it - kept plonking my bottom on the broken slab! Must eat less take-out!
Jake on the brilliant traverse - Crossing the Rails 5+** - The Calcine Boulders
Working out the projects - The left hand is hard to start - the arete is easier to start; but topping out is hard! Needs to be a bit drier.
Sam on own problem - A chisel a pick and a walking stick - SS 6b+** - The Work Break Boulder
Thorsminde SS 6c**
The Thorgill Diamond - A real gem with three lines. Both aretes and a central line all from sit - this time round did the left hand from sit but never topped out (too the right of the nose). It was tricky even when dry. 
Holding the sloper
Finally the Mighty Oak falls! at Oak crag - Local climber Mike Gray cuts loose on a great first ascent of this worthy problem. The grade has not yet been confirmed. Well done.

7 Mar 2011


Time for a chill out weekend at my mates in Liverpool, just as we have the best weather in ages!!!!
oh well at least the rock was getting dryer. 
On Sunday had a session at the new purpose built bouldering wall  - The Climbing Hangar
The problems were excellent, most demanding thought and technicality for success - with the odd bit of brute force - The staff were very welcoming - got to watch the live stream of the bouldering competition over a drink - cheers - well worth checking out if your in the area.
Great for all ages - young Mark enjoying the walls
Angles and circuits at all grades - all colour coded 
Lisa finishing off the steep roof on the oranges even Gail had a bash