24 Oct 2010

Saved by the Black Wall

Still intent on going to the meet this weekend even after the weather was worse than forecast, it was left to Mark and myself to set up base camp at the 'dry in a monsoon wonder' that is Black Wall at Ravenswick quarry.
Base camp. Good for mud slides! My tent flooded early Sunday morning! After a change of clothes, 
warmed back up again at the Lion Inn with a sausage and bacon butty and a massive pot of tea - a most 
welcoming pub - highly recommended.
Black Wall - still dry after 3 days of rain
Surprised that anyone would turn out in this weather - Saturday ended up quite a session, with young moors explorer Sam, finding the first nice line - and then showing the way with some good technique.
Sam Marks attempts Bio-fuel SS Font 6c
Dave Middleton on his painful crimp project
only later to be flashed! by Steve Ramsden
Steve Ramsden on Dark Times SS Font 6b***
The classic of the crag
Mark Wilson on the finishing moves of 'Spiderman'
Showing Oaksi the finger jam placement on Bio-fuel
Night bouldering. The lower platform traverse from right to left - Creepy Crawly Font SS 6b** Climbs via the thin higher crack far right, a technical double crux - needs cleaning after wet spells 
Night time project (Photo Mark Wilson)
After plenty of cleaning the first set of problems on the all weather Black Wall were ready and there were plenty more projects to go at. A perfect venue for a rainy day! Big thanks to all that were determined to come out in the wet. 

17 Oct 2010

Moors Meet Details and Chasing Rainbows

Moors Meet Details
The meet will start at 6pm at the The Lion Inn Friday from there some night bouldering at Rosedale head or Ravenswick if Its raining as you can climb on black wall in the rain - "Its also the Stoney Middleton of the Moors!"
join in any day - Trad-heads also welcome - just don't expect us to tie any knots or belay!

Friday  22nd October. Gather at 6pm, small wild campsite adjacent to The Lion Inn up on Blakey Ridge, from there some night bouldering at Rosedale head or Ravenswick

Saturday 23rd October. Meet at 10am beside The Lion Inn - will be at Ingleby - projects - circuits and new development to be investigated.

Sunday 24th October. Meet at 10am beside The Lion Inn - The Wainstones and Cold Moor - projects - circuits and potential new development there too. Who dare enter the Cold Moor mine shaft!
Any Enquiries Email: lee@betaguides.com

Chasing Rainbows
Today's welcome to Blakey Ridge  - Where the pots of gold lie in wait?
It's good to see that plenty of fellow mat carriers are heading further into the depths searching for blocks or sweet lines on long-forgotten crags. Feels like I've been Chasing Rainbows all my life (Shed Seven Song), looking for boulders that are not in guides or on anyone's radar puts a different edge on any day out on the hill. There's a sense of anticipation of what the rock's like, and the possibility of finding a gem that makes it all the more worthwhile. 
This week's mystery location was High Crag (Westerdale) on the edge of Stockdale Moor.
On the walk in Tor Hill Crags caught my attention as I could see some nice leaning faces on it! Just how high - will check this out next time.
Tor Hill Crags
To get to High Crag you have to pass through High House farm, were I had the warmest greeting from the friendliest farmer you would ever wish to meet. Firstly asking me my favorite ice breaker "What's that on your back?" He then opened all the gates to let me short cut through the farm, both of us talking all the while. His favourite family summer picnic site on High Crag has a fantastic view of all the dales!
Here comes the gloom
A quick scan of the lines on the crag indicated mostly lower grades up to font 5+ with the odd harder traverse and short hard line on good sandstone. There was one smooth gem of a boulder with a distinctive red colouring that I just had to do a problem on even though it was a bit damp! Too tempting!
Not too high - amazing friction - perfect slopers - needs a dry day
Pot of Gold SS Font 6b+ tricky start - a long reach to a sloping top 
a good crimp further back if you can get it! 
Had to be careful driving through Pickering as it was 'War Weekend'

10 Oct 2010

A Yorkshire Coastal Venue?

Woke up this morning with plans to do a Moors circuit but my exploring head got the better of me.
After a quick check of the tides (2.30pm low tides), it was time to take the 'Ravenscar to Hayburn Wyke dense boulder cluster tidal challenge', Believe me many a helicopter has lifted a stranded tourist off this three mile tidal run the gauntlet, with no easy escape route. Before you ask - yes I messed it right up and bottled it! Had to take a scary escape route!!!!  Averted the need for helicopter rescue thanks to my trusty innov8 mud-claws four wheel drive for feet, though I still had to tramp through some dense gorse bushes. Arghhh!! I hate them more than midges, tall bracken, deep heather, deep bogs, horse flies and private land (should I say that?).
Probably about 8 out of 10 on the brown trouser-omiter due to the rising surf. All the hassle was well worth it, as Yorkshire now has a coastal bouldering venue.  It's no St Bee's, but on a dry day if you arrive two hours before low tide it's worth a look - stunning area with still more to look at when I get the tides right!
The first nice block - slightly sandy in the damp air
Mars and two small buoys?
A little dabble
Do Wild Country do a seaweed brush?
The sun cheered me up no end on a dull misty day

2 Oct 2010

Gabbrofest and Planning a trip to Scotland

Gabbrofest bouldering in the Cullins - James Sutton 2006 - Click here to download
I have spent all this week updating the site and working on topos, so its time to plan a few trips, so many places to check out, sometimes I nearly blow a fuse at the amount of amazing geology the UK and Ireland has to offer!
So a visit to Scotland late November and a trip to some other venues - I have been meaning to investigate? - All wild and remote so this will definitely fix my head - I will be putting some of these venues on the Betaguides site, with a mystery icon, so have have a look - send me any other locations and I will put them on the site. 

Moors Meet 22nd October Weekend

Anyone who wants to join in please email me to confirm lee@betaguides.com
The Meet will start at Blakey Ridge - Lots to do - at all grades - projects - circuit development - everyone is welcome - hope to see you all there to enjoy some of the best bouldering the North Yorkshire Moors has to offer.