11 Apr 2010

Danby and the Sublime Arete

Back on the Moors again, this time joining Dave and Franco, Franco was feeling ready to lead his project at Danby Crag, I was keen to join them and video and take pictures of the ascent. before even getting to Franco's, I spied some tasty boulders off the road on the way into Castleton! so we went up to warm up before going to Danby
Franco warming up at the Stormy Hall Boulders F6a+
Body Torque a Painful Prow Project! F7b?
After setting up the video and working out the best place to shot the Arete, I went for an investigate the very dark mossy boulders below, surprisingly finding three good lines.
Good Save the Green F6a+*
The Great Rock and Roll Swindle F6b**
Up the centre of the scoop
The other being the left arete from sit, on the block above, thanks to Dave for the Photos. By the time i was done, Franco was ready to lead, The arete
Setting off
Gear Placed
The Hypocrisy of Moose*** H7 6c (E8?)
FA Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton (shunted the crux moves) 10/04/2010
The route Follows the right arete of the Twin Aretes Buttress. Bold and blind side pulls and undercuts lead to good gear in a suspect flake and a lower tricam. Make further harder and blinder moves to a good edge and a large finishing rockover, which is a worrying distance from your gear.
Flowing technical moves, with a beautiful sequence of off-balance gastons. The onsight grade was based on the RPs not being that bomber- ripping out on Franco's onsight attempt. It might be safe, but the flake does move!
An awsome route, it was great to be there to witness it, thanks, yet another great day in the moors.

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