19 Jul 2010

Sleeping on Boulders

After a mad six crag trek with Liam on friday night - from Middle Head Crag to the Todd Intake boulders.
my hopes were high for finding something special - especially after trudging through neck high ferns - up and down dale - falling down a few holes along the way - the plan was to check the six areas and get on the best lines the next day! 
We landed on Todd Intake at dusk - after a dangerous decent of Middle Head Crag (The Smaller one North of Kay Nest -  it's in the background of this photo covered in ferns and trees!)
Keen to scan the boulders I woke up at 4 am - the rock was excellent and one boulder stood out from the rest it looked like a pig or wild boar? when we finally woke it was straight to work cleaning and working a couple of lines - Liam headed for the Wild Boar! and soon found a fine looking line that would take a bit of work, but after a while breeched it in style..
Rassassier Font 7c*** 
Superb moves on Font like sandstone, toping out round to the left, worth a visit if you go to Kay Nest.
Soon after Liam sent the problem - the rain came so a retreat to Badger Rock - not having time left for a daylight visit to the Collar Ridge Boulders (Click here for location) across the dale to the north east - it had few problems there
Anyway on to the anomaly Badger Rock (Click here for Location) Nice looking with a good hand full of lines - a bit of a shame the best prow has a two inch crunchy layer of sandstone seam otherwise the rock is sound a climbs well with both added two great lines before leaving quite satisfied.

  Nocturnal SS Font 6b+*
Badgers SS Font 6b**
Oh nearly forgot Middle Head! where the journey began and the car was parked - sorry not much of a bouldering crag - Red Wall looked Ok - but as for the rest of the crag - the landings were too steep.
On the plus side there was a small boulder field just before you get to Middle Head with some low-ball stuff and a bulging wall with a bad landing - Dale Head Boulders (Click here for location) 
It was good to see Liam again -  he and his brother Brandon are always very psyched - they are both  moving to New Zealand soon so they are getting in as much UK classic rock before they go, It would be  nice to get out again with them both before they go.
Stormy Hall News
Martin Parker visited Stormy Hall (click here for location) and repeated body Torque, then also climbed the Dyno project to the right naming it Angry Bee Dyno SS font 7a+ good effort Martin.
Franco Cookson on the Angry Bee Dyno

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