Kyloe in the Woods

I have added the main wall to www.betaguides.com will add the rest of the crag later.

Desert Island  Bouldering, the main wall Kyloe In the Woods

Mud Sweat and Tears at the Roaches

Hard course grit for change, a pleasent reminder how good the roaches were, perfect for a late night summer session or warm dry winter hardcore projects. Avoiding the Aptly named Boggy 'Spring Boulders" (a must after a dry spell) we got straight on the classics on the lower tier, taking warm ups and ticking some quality classic lines.

Rob on Stretch and Mantel F6c

Then to the very wet and muddy Doxey's Pool, behind the skyline area, taking a splash down in the water on Staffordshire Flyer, got soaked! most starts were sodden and 5:10 don't make wellies, so back down to the upper tier just as the sun broke the clouds.

Super glue fingers James on Nadin's Traverse Hard 7a***

A nice eliminate F6a with a much harder sit start

Good balance or maybe asleep?

Plenty to do at any grade, a brilliant day out, a mystical place, looks like spring is here at last!!!!

Betaguides Database will be live soon!

At long last the site will be functioning and be able to hold Topos from anywhere or anyone. Some topos will be available for a small fee, some will be free, any topo downloaded 10% of the proceeds will be donated to mountain rescue, some will have 100% donated.

So if you have any topos you would like to donate, contact me: lee@betaguides.com

Bridestones Revisited

The High Bridestones

A sunny day at last! with snow on its way tomorrow, a quick trip to the North York Moors, to the soft sandy Bridestones, probably the closest rock to home!

The quality of the rock can be dubious but there are a lot of quality lines, with a circuit of over a hundred problems from Font 3 to Font 6c and some nice eliminates on the high Bridestone buttresses, definatley a great family venue, hours of fun for the kids.

A good four hours, two chicken burgers, tikka kebab and ribs (Morrisons in Malton mmmm) we had ran out of steam, it was also getting dark!

Best of the day: 
1: The Smaller overhang on the Second pinnacle both sides and direct Font 6a

Rob cranking the direct line

2: The Amazing Pepper Pot is a must, Master, Mr and Mrs Pepper Pot, all around Font 6b but not quite sure were to follow the original lines set by Griff Griffith 1995 (don't tip it over!)

The Pepper Pot

3: Big Dogs Cock on the Isolated Pinnacle, a highball  Font 5+

Rob pulling on Big Dogs Cock

4: A nice little problem on the 2nd High Buttress, using a mono and an undercut sandy sloper, heading direct to the sapling, SS Font 6c

A Western Sun Trap

A Clear Sky over the Burbage Valley

Finally a break in the weather! it was a choice between the North Yorkshire Moors or the Peak.

The Peak won, so straight to Burbage West, a fine sun trap in the low temperatures, and very social relaxed start to the year.

Tom eating up 'Breakfast' Font 7a**

with Oaksi spotting, blinded by 

Toms technique or maybe the sun?

Some Good test pieces were taken on the day, and attempts were made at some of the "so from there you have to latch that!"(SpartacusFont 7c**) with good range of other problems to keep everyone amused.

 

Working 'Famous Grouse' font 7c*

Proving Girls have better technique, 'Lucy' 

showing the boys the way on 'The Nose' Font 7a*

As the shadows and the cold fell on the west, we headed over to Burbage North for a dabble on the classics, some starts had been under massive snow drifts that had been dug out by keen activists, thanks.

The sun faded on the valley, painting the rock an amazing red and gold, reminding me of Torridon and Applecross trips to come.......... 

'Remergence Start' Font 6b

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

Literary Motivation

Today is officially the most depressing day of the year! (according to the statisticians) so if you are still bearing a spare tyre, sat on your arse at home watching celebrity big brother, blaming the bad weather for not getting out, look no further than 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes, by Dave MacLeod for inspiration and motivation for the year ahead.

This 176 page book is the first to present the science of improving, helping climbers break the cycle of failure and guide you on the road to success........

Read a Review  By John Watson

Buy it Here

Bouldering on Volcanos

Referring to the Greek island of Santorini, were one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history occurred some 3,600 years ago at the height of the Minoan civilization. The eruption left a large caldera surrounded by volcanic ash deposits hundreds of feet deep and may have led indirectly to the collapse of the Minoan civilization on the island of Crete, 68 miles to the south, through the creation of a gigantic tsunami. Another popular theory holds that the eruption is the source of the legend of Atlantis.

Santorini today, the main Island is 12 miles long and
 the small Island in the middle is only 200 years old!

Twisted formations of highly compressed lava, spewed out

when the small island (Nea Kameni) was underwater

Hard almost glass like, chunks of aggressive

 looking volcanic rock  

A dense mass in the background

Our balcony, top center, 1000ft above sea level, stunning!