21 Sep 2009

Craigmore Classic - Glasgow Bouldering


Craigmore- The Sun Tzu Dyno from John Watson on Vimeo.
CRAIGMORE BOULDERING - Glasgow  NS 528 798
Approach
From Glasgow the A809 finally gains open country outside of Bearsden. The road winds out to Drymen and Loch Lomond, but before this, just after the biker-haven of the Carbeth Inn, take the first right along the B821 link-road to Strathblane. After the green hut community of the forest, the crag is on the left, hidden in trees by the fields, just before the West Highland Way. Park carefully in a layby or under the trees further east and walk back. North-east facing, it is best in a dry spell in spring or autumn. Avoid the midge season and don’t go if it’s damp as the mossy old forest retains the moisture. The best of the bouldering can be completed as a Fontainebleau-like circuit, providing a good work-out on varying styles of problem. The Southern section is predominantly bouldering on the main crag buttresses, while the Northern section gives dispersed boulders and walls all the way to the end. The rock is a dimpled basalt which chalks up to good slopers and small crimps. Fingerlocks seem to be the key to many problems, as well as good technique with the feet.

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