25 May 2011

How to Disappear Completely

Just got back from a solo mission, sleeping out on the crag, harsh winds made it fun with the pad, got some good stuff done and a lot of mapping, photos of blocks, ready for an assault later in the week.
On the way up stopped off at Clemmitt's north end to bag the Mantle, (high in bracken now) went first go!? so I'll have to wait for a repeat before grading it?
Shelf Life, Using bad technique - earlier attempt
Two days scoping a venue, old projects came into mind, Travelled to the now felled woods surrounding Captain Cook's crag. This was slightly heartbreaking as wooded bouldering feels somewhat mystical and the place now looks like a scene from a disaster movie
 Submariner 6b
Not so mystical? but cleaner
left the boulder alone, it had some chalk and brush marks on, a good sign, and a problem on the other side of the block that I had cleaned to come back to, showed signs of further brushing in the right places,  hopefully someone has done it, the sit start was tricky, the top out had a few options, yet still another problem on the block.
1. Marr's Attacks 7a*** 2. Men's Zone 6b* 3. Captain Sausage Fingers 6b**
4. The other arete on the right-side - good moves, overgrown top out
Over to the right hand Cook's quarry to finish a problem tried over a year ago, Started on Men's Zone a Tony Marr English 6a* the left arete, then planned to start the arete and climb onto the slab, seemed a bit daft, so decided to take the block up the middle starting with feet on the blocks, without using both aretes, fell off first time at the top move, felt bold and about the same grade as the arete, then set about on an eliminate on the left wall without the ledges. Twenty minutes getting the first move sorted, loads of attempts and nine pops for the top out falls later, got it done.
Legs were shot after this, wondered back to the big block falling over everything chuntering to myself, time to go home I think, passing Roseberry on the way.
Roseberry Topping - The fields like rolling seas in the wind

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