Boulders Under Armed Guard- Part 1

320 miles and a 6km march up Lugnaguilla to the boulders under the North Prison, 19 hours after setting off from Hull, Reward was in sight, It was 9 o'clock and the sun was about to set as the golden blocks of granite appeared to my delight, I really didn't know what would be there?  having tried many times to get into this illusive cluster and failed! for a few reasons, Firstly as its under armed guard on a artillery range and secondly the mist and cloud cover keep it's contents secret the rest of the time. I had half an hour to take it all in before darkness swallowed it all up again......

On the next attempt I was joined by Dave Flanagan, also keen to check out the blocks, The Red flags were up! (forgot to check!) still keen to sneak around the back we approached the guard, and asked "if we could go up?" he radioed through the answer was quite blunt "Under no circumstances does anyone pass" I asked "could we sneak over the back?" the guard said "I cannot stop you lads, but we have a lookout and if he spots you, you'll be coming straight back down again" I wondered if it was worth taking a bullet for a chance to climb on some virgin granite?

The Heather topped 'Warden Boulder' 

Sunset on the sliced granite

Time for one problem Red Flag SS 6c excellent

The North Prisons Security Blanket

Drink Problem

Had to say goodbye to 'Herbie' this week, we have been together for a while but her drink problem has got to much for me! £72 to fill up and 30 to the gallon. It's crazy, trips are starting to cost too much, anyway found a nice trim little super-mini with a pokey 1.5 turbo diesel engine 70mp, that's me back in love again, just in time for a week in Ireland, Checking out all the tantalizing blocks in Dave Flanagan's guide
Training has been going well, knee seems fine! It helps getting out on real rock mid week, The Magnesium Limestone has got me pretty psyched, especially getting the project at the Earth Quarry

Shifting Sands 7a 

 Earth Quarry - Raw Edge Days Videos
back in the car for more exploration exploration................

Tony on a New Project - Some where out there, deep in the magnesian Limestone Jungle, watch this space - time to get the garden tools out again

100% not good enough - next time

Earth Quarry

A free topo to a new venue developed by the Raw Edge Team. Part of a forthcoming guide to Southern Magnesian Limestone. Click here for Location

Earth Quarry Bouldering

Before the rains came and a Coastal video

Firstly James has made another quality video of the rapidly developing North East coastal venue Cloughton Wyke Check out my calf rock-over, possibly a new technique?! some great problems coming together now, the circuits coming on nicely, possibly a full topo after the next visit.

Go Coastal 2 

Then onto the massive wet front heading our way, Oh bugger, decided to have a flash friday afternoon visit and stay up there over night then head to the coast in the morning, just in case the coast escaped the front? It never, luckly enough friday was dry and climbed plenty at Clemmitt's Out, developing the circuit, sand bagging and grade debating with Dooge and Franco. Also test drove the New Tenaya Shoes, worked like a dream, stuck everything with confidence, even got some previous projects done!

Motivating Dooge for the team ascent of what became Paparazzi Arete 7a+** from crouch, efforts were had on the sit but it never got linked, 7b*** when it goes....

 Come on Dooge

 First to the post Franco

A close second and a text book moors top out

Smashing a previous arete project on the Hidden wall, 7a in my book, short but hard.

Southern Magnesian Limestone

Having dabbled a while ago on Southern Magnesium Limestone and enjoyed the experience,  I was pretty chuffed to be invited to climb on a new venue that had been developed by the R.E.D lads.

Upon arrival it was obvious a lot of work had been done on the venue, cleaning up, digging, removing bottles, litter. Unearthing a superb little quarry venue with real boulders, It had great views over the now closed and sold Earth Centre. 

The circuit had good mix of safe classic lines, highballs and top notch one to two move wonders with only a few problems with a sketchy landing, offering a good workout for anyone climbing 7's or above

 Mike Adams on new problem 7c I think?

 Sunset Wall - A short wall with a myriad of amazing holds and one move wonders 

The wall turns blood red at sunset, quite a sight!

Into dark trying to make my mark! nearly

A Dip in the North Sea

Back to the coast, ended up to be a good plan, even though the rock was still slightly wet in parts due to the regular scattered showers we've been getting lately. All that aside plenty got done, sunbathing, swimming a bit of bouldering, perfect, summer coastal bouldering takes some beating this time of year. Sorry for the short post, but need to work up and draw the problems, a video from James to follow and may get some footage and pics from Dawid Skoczylas and Mike Adams.

Dawid Skoczylas on the 'Roof' from a low standing start

A bold prow from Sit on the Smugglers block, the full traverse below the lip on this block will be an epic

Sweet arete from sit, also finishes up the centre

*** Prow traverse on the plateau, with only just enough space to fall off!

Mike Adams on a 7c arete - On the plateau roof - Mint

Time to Chill

Lindos - Rhodes - Due to work being slack got in an early annual sunshine holiday, it's a place of ancient crusades, culture and the now not so busy Falaraki. Lindos has everything for a good holiday,  firstly plenty of rock, history, culture, friendly people, good food, once the centre of the trade on a global level, quite a prize in its time, knights from all over the world flocked to fight to keep control as it's significance was not far from the level that Jerusalem was. 

Checked out a lot of rock while I was there, some of it volcanic, which climbed well, some calcified limestone very pocketed and eroded other blocks were quite solid. Most of the rock needed a mat and some of the pockets looked like they could be home to some dangerous invertebrates! the blocks on the hill on the way down to the square will hold a good circuit, not sure the goat farmer and the resident donkeys would approve?

The best find of the week was on palace beach, a cave on the right hand end, it held two quality lines starting right at the back of the cave both 7a with lots of variations to be done, perfect holiday training on a low roof without the need for a mat, a very perfect holiday

St Pauls bay Lindos

The Acropolis Lindos

Canon balls Rhodes old town

A good cave on the coast

Palace beach cave Lindos - Sunburnt Knight 7a***