2 May 2010

The Meaning of Life Part 1

After a little bit of planning and some of what I call Googlising (looking at boulders on Google Earth) Steve and I plotted a course from Clay Bank to High Crag, with high expectations of another classic gem hidden in the Moors?
First stop, the small cluster just above the woods before you get to Botton Head. A pleasant little cluster  containing grades in the Font 4/5+ range, with great views of the Ingleby Incline Boulders. (Don't be deceived  by the clean looking cluster on top of Ingleby Moor. The Boulders are around 3ft high - the best illusion I've ever come across. Steve named this the Magic Cluster! ) Anyway onwards.....
Next stop: Earthworks, we dropped down into the first North-facing crag to find a small higher tier bearing a small face with two rail features on it - something to warm up on!
Earthworm Jim Font 6b* SS Video still Steve Ramsden
Two good problems from sit, some hard pulls and a strong off balance crossover are needed on Earthworm Jim F6b*, The higher sloping rail is a bit easier: Slippery Jim F6a SS.
The lower crag tier contained some highball lines, some nice angles with dubious landings - not sure of the quality of climbing though, bold and in need of a clean! Following the ridge round eastwards to the established selection of bouldering was Earthwork Rocks. Better rock holding a selection of entertainment. The best being Red and White F6b** and Under the Arch F6b** These are Steve Crowe and Karin Magog ascents. Keen to make an addition Steve Ramsden added a sit start problem to the left hand of the Arch boulder. Good starting moves then a big pop into a large pocket with a nice spicy top out.
Steve on Holeshot F6b+*
Skirting further down the boulders on the ridge of Urra Moor above Bilsdale (before Weighill's plantation and the small quarry with a big slab boulder in it.) Things began to look quite promising? There were two lines with satisfying-looking angles on quality rock. Firstly on a lower boulder, Pythagoreanism F6a* SS good moves on slopers, top out left of the top arete.
Steve Stretching hard on Pythagoreanism F6a* SS
Whilst I scouted the small crag over the wall, Steve worked on what was to be what become 42 font 7a+ SS 6c+ from standing (The Meaning of Life', according to Douglas Adams) Absolute Bliss! Unlocking the sequence of moves proved difficult - sloping crimps, small crimps, a poor pinch and sloping top! Arghh, never mind the sit start, eventually the sit fell to a controlled rocking slap onto a crimp, due to some very precise body-positioning, giving the Moors another classic test piece.
42 Font 7a+*** SS
This was all less than halfway through a  knackering ten hour scouting boulderthon of the Moors.
Part Two to come and hopefully footage of the line 42  from Steve...........


  1. nice write up, looking forward to part II! Video's on it's way. Bit stingey on the holeshot grade there!? The throw move's way harder than anything on Red and White or under the arch so I'd go for 6b+ (done a few easier 6c's mind!) nice move though, and nice set up to get there. piece

  2. Sorry Steve, forgot what grade you gave it! a worthwhile sit start to that block for sure. I have changed it