27 Sep 2009

Your Climbing Bench mark

After a four month break due to injury and an indulgent honeymoon holiday, I was wondering if the grade you are think you are climbing is what you are actually achieving? Attempting problems that are not in guides can give you a sense of doubt, so I asked myself what are my benchmark problems?  Pongo 6c+: Dumbarton, Monty Pythons SS 7a: Northumberland, T Crack 7b: Peak District, King of Drunks 6c: Llanberis Pass, nice problems on very different rock. This weekend was a bit of an indian summer so I decided to go somewhere local and test my strength on bench mark problems that I have struggled on in the past! With renewed psyche, I headed to the tranquil Spofforth pinnacles, near Wetherby in Yorkshire to tick some previously visited test pieces, the best of the day being:

Backwards 6c+ SS from a rail to a lefthand
curved groove aim left to a faint crimp and
stretch with difficulty up to the jug, unbelievable!

Stretch Armstrong 6c SS The most direct way up
the arete, the reach is massive, and the foot
sequence to control the swing is brilliant, enjoy!

Crimple 6b+ Using the small undercut crimp
pull up to the sloper, lock off hard on the right
and finish in the sloping pocket to the left, ***

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